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nomad-photographers-surfers

I SHOULD BE SHAPING SURFBOARDS IN HAWAII

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LIFESTYLE by KRISS on 30 march 2017

I SHOULD BE SHAPING SURFBOARDS IN HAWAII When I was my son’s age or even a bit younger, my little room at my grands in a 16th storey with vistas al mar was filled with posters from Surf magazines, ranging from beautiful waves to other beautiful curves of the ladies in the Reef Brazil ads.
I had stickers from various brands on my window and I couldn’t get enough of that California 80’s rainbow shade style ! I had a few vintage Santa Cruz skateboards I had got for almost nothing at the car boot sale.
Maybe they would cost a bit of money now but I didn’t keep them because I neither had proper trucks or wheels to mount the boards.
I had a badly repaired yellow single fin gun surfboard as well and never set foot on a least stable board in my life, on the very few occasions I braved the wind and people’s stares or chavs harassement on the bus to go surfing with it.

Back then when you asked me what I wanted to do when I grow up I would have said “I want to shape surfboards in Hawaii”.
Yes that was my plan, that was the energy that fuelled me for a while until various reasons had me giving up hope ever realising it.
It then became a dream, and then a topic of jokes (‘member when I wanted to shape surfboards in Hawaii) and then I kind of sucked at life for a while.

Today I am a father of 3 growing children and whatever their plans are, even so often shifting like it is the norm at their age, I try my best not to be an asshole and break their ideals because I know that from that bunch of crap popping into their heads resides their true nature and what they will always either aim at or regret.

I thought it lost at some point but it is the meaning of “where there is life there is hope” I guess.
I have no more desire to shape surfboards for now but a huge need to be around them and embrace this lifestyle in some place like Hawaii because somehow part of me stayed true to who I was at 11 years old !

Only now I can achieve what I want because I have understood what kept me from acting on my plans and led me on wrong paths was fear and doubt.

That’s why I can say today : “yes I should be shaping surfboards in Hawaii”, but also “I will be if I want to”… And I want to !!!

Photo credit : Bobby Hundreds (this is the closest shot to what I remember in my magazines as a kid)

#hawaii #surf #beachlife #beachbum

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